One of my all-time favorite Patek Philippe models is the Annual Calendar Regulator – more commonly called the Regulator. Diving deep into the product is what we love to do here at The Thoughtful Collector, and we will be publishing a separate post on the mechanics of the high-tech caliber 31-260. My affection for this mechanical art is well known among my fellow watch enthusiasts, and I couldn’t resist publishing this article covering it more broadly. Even my wife has accepted that this watch occupies a piece of emotional real estate within my heart. 

For those of us who are influenced by details when it comes to luxury products, the Regulator serves us a bountiful feast of them. Now over a decade old, we should revisit this important watch that links the old world and the new world.

It can’t be overstated that its independence allows limitless creativity and ample time to get it right. Patek Philippe has operated in this environment since its establishment in 1839. As a result, the brand has built a portfolio of products shaped by details that matter and are free of gimmicks. So when it came time to create its first regulator wristwatch, Mssr Thierry Stern ensured it would represent an intersection of modernism and traditionalism. And it would matter.

Fully motivated, Mssr Stern and the team launched their creative firepower into developing an entirely new advanced caliber. Although this delayed the official launch, they arrived at a forward-thinking design with a whole lotta soul.

The purpose of a regulator display

The face of the watch demands your attention as it doesn’t resemble anything else in the collection. Ten years later, it still doesn’t, and typically signals that there’s more here to investigate. The best starting place is with some history of early regulator clocks.

I recall my first time seeing the pendulum clock that inspired this watch in the office of Philippe Stern (3rd generation president; now honorary president). Standing there, the earlier signature Patek Philippe & Co. on the dial, its pendulum quietly swaying. It stood staring back at me in a friendly way, but its power hooked me. 

In the early twentieth century, these standing pendulum clocks were called into service and relied upon by watchmakers and observatories for precise time. When adjusting their timepieces, watchmakers needed an unobstructed view of the seconds hand, so the hour hand was relocated to an off-center position where it would not sweep across and cover the seconds dial for several hours in a day. Very smart.

However, they were not smarter than the quartz and radio-controlled instruments that would ultimately retire them. That leaves these free-standing beauties to be adored for their charm and working in Philippe Stern’s office instead of the workshop. 

These early pendulum clocks sparked a style reminiscent of those utilitarian predecessors. A combination of satin finish and sharp linear blued hands finish off the homage to this throwback era.

Now, turn the watch over to be mesmerized by an exceptional view. The off-set micro-rotor enables greater visibility of traditional hand-finished Swiss artistry, including Côtes de Genève (Geneva striping) and Perlage (circular graining). The movement comes alive with textures and sparkle. We can see the blue Silinvar componentry steadily keeping the rhythm among this decorative brilliance. Remember when I mentioned that the regulator clock’s primary purpose was to set the watch to the nearest second? Thanks to a hack seconds feature, the wearer can set time to the nearest second just like a watchmaker. This level of charm and nostalgic detail makes me think of those craftspeople at their benches more than a century ago.

A few words on the caliber 31-260

As I mentioned, only a new movement befitting the avant-garde aesthetic would do. Although ultra-thin was desired, the legendary base caliber 240 wouldn’t work. Not with its display of the subsidiary dial at five instead of the six o’clock position. Therefore, the development team created the proper movement for the unusual configuration. Ultimately, the caliber 31-260 equipped with an Annual Calendar was brought to life. This achievement makes my heart jump. It was also so advanced at the time that it required greater understanding and delayed initial deliveries. 

The movement showcases Silinvar technology center stage. This patented material derived from silicon was developed in-house by the Advanced Research department and embodies an array of heavenly properties perfect for watchmaking. The Pulsomax escapement – reserved for limited production models until then – is featured alongside a Spiromax balance spring. These fearsome components ward off magnetism, maintaining greater accuracy than their steel counterparts. By integrating this high degree of mechanical tech, Mssr Stern elevated his Regulator to another level.

For motorsport enthusiasts, the 31-260 is similar to a racing engine. Its sophistication reaches beyond its Pulsomax hardware and requires deeper studying. 

A thoroughbred of precision

The theme of precision is apparent in the mechanical dynamics of the watch and even in the construction and finishing of the exterior as well. You feel it when holding the 18K gold Calatrava style case in your hands. The angular-shaped lugs have just the right contour for a snug fit. Study them, and you’ll wonder how skilled a polisher must be to reach the deep corners. They are so precisely bold. Unsurprisingly, Patek Philippe saved some magic dust for the exclusive pin buckle design. This elegant dash of Art Deco engraving brings it all together for the perfect finish. 

With practical functionality and luxurious detailing, the Regulator is a nod to a bygone era – and powered by advanced technology. A meaningful Patek Philippe in every way to its very core. Over ten years since its first deliveries, and horological connoisseurs are adding this timepiece to their